Monday, April 2, 2007

Recette Fondue (3/18: Paris)

Michel and I don’t get up until around 1 in the afternoon. Given that we went to bed at 8am (we stayed up talking for another hour or so), I think this was fairly impressive on our part. So, shower/clean-up, and Michel’s mom and step-dad have prepared a full on lunch for us. Start with some shrimp, and sliced bread with pate-de-thon (tuna salad, but way way better) or a tapenade type spread (also very good) – all accompanied with some champagne. Then we move to the dining table, where they have prepared a thinly sliced veal with garlic, and the scariest (in a good way) mashed potatoes ever. I forget what the dish is called, but basically they mash up potatoes, and then melt in tomette (cheese) until the potatoes take on a dough like consistency. Of course, everything tastes phenomenal. After that they bring out 5 different cheeses, and finally dessert (crème caramel). Awesome lunch.

After lunch, mess around for a bit, and then get ready to go out. Michel is going to a dinner party that Roman is hosting, and I have plans to go hang out with Pimous. So, head out by Metro to the Champs Elysee with two goals: top-up my cell phone, and buy some champagne to bring to Pimous’s. Since it’s Sunday, virtually everything is closed, so I have to go to the super touristy store right near the Arc de Triomphe to get alcohol. I’m sure I got ripped off, but whatever… gotta have champagne.

Finally get to Pimous’s metro stop around 8, we stop into a little café for a drink (he runs into a some friends and gets roped into playing for yet another team in an upcoming rugby tournament), and then we stop to pick up dinner before heading back to his place to meet up with his girlfriend (Maia) and her brother (JoJo). Where do we pick up dinner? MacDonalds! And it is better here! In addition to everything on our menu, they also have a bacon-quarterpounder, the choice of two different types of fries, a MacDonaldsized Croque Mounsieur, they serve beer, and have a weekly special that blends a burger with something French. For example, the “Recette Fondue Burger”, which is basically a quarter pounder with a foundue type cheese instead of the regular cheese. Other specials were the “Recette Tartiflette” (burger with a hashed brown and a French cheese stacked in), and the “Recette Raclette” which has Racelette cheese and cornichons stacked in. Of course, I got the Recette Fondue. It was different, but about as bad as you’d expect anything from McDonalds to be. Anyway, get back to Pimous’s place, put a bottle of champagne in the fridge, and start eating our McDonalds and drinking wine.

Hang out there for a bit, drink the bottle of champagne, play with JoJo’s dog, and reflect on the week Pimous and I had just spent in Les Arcs. When the subject of France’s behavior comes up, JoJo agrees with me that she’s just a bitch. Ha! Validation!

Around 10ish I head back to Michel’s place (Pimous has to be up early to go out of town), watch the end of a movie with Michel’s mom, and hit the sack by 11.

Don’t French People Sweat? (3/17: Les Arcs to Paris)

Wake up in the morning, and frantically get all of our packing done. By 10am, we have all of our stuff outside of the room. Michel needs to wander around the village a bit to retrieve the case for his glasses, Pimous needs to head into the village to finish checking out, and the girls show up. What the hell?! I though I was done with them! Why are we still hanging out with them? Anyway, get the car loaded up, head back to the village for coffee and coke (for the frenchies), and an OJ for me. They seem to think it’s funny that I’m drinking orange juice in the morning after a night of drinking (even though I don’t get hangovers), I’m laughing at the fact that French people can’t seem to go an hour without drinking coffee – and that they think Coke is a good “morning after” drink.

Finally hit the road, and about 20 minutes later have to stop so Michel can throw up some more (he really is a delicate little flower). Continue on for a bit, and then hit traffic. And I don’t mean the heading home from Tahoe at 30mph traffic, I mean dead stop, turn of the engine traffic. I fall asleep, and wake up to find us (finally) moving again. We get out of the mountains, and then Pimous and I switch driving duties. Unfortunately, since any tickets I get in his car will first find their way to his company – getting him in a bit of trouble – I have to actually obey the speed limits. Oh well. Pimous sleeps, I drive, eventually we switch back, and eventually he drops us off at home.

Now Michel and I have about 30 minutes to get showered and dressed to go back out to meet up with Roman (Michel’s best friend) and Lauren (an American living in Paris, and friend of a coworker of Michel’s). Head out, and go to the restaurant L’Arome in the 8th. The food is good, but this is clearly a trendy restaurant. Whatever. I’m just relieved after a week of full on French to finally have a native English speaker – an American! – to talk to. I start the night by making half-assed attempts at speaking French, but by the time dinner is done, Michel and Roman are having their own conversation in French, and Lauren and I are just speaking to each other English.

From the restaurant, we head over to a bar (forget the name… Michel/Lauren/Pimous, any of you remember?). Most of the people there are the same people I’d met briefly the previous Friday night before we all left for Les Arcs. Lauren and I sit together and keep talking. Roman is kind of standing around aimlessly, so Lauren invites him to join us, and the three of us talk for a bit. I notice that pretty much every time Roman says a word, he pretty much leans right into Lauren’s lap (and I later found out that he was rubbing his leg up against hers the whole time), so I get up to get a drink to give them a bit of – ahem – privacy. No more than few minutes go by, before Lauren and Roman are suddenly at the bar with me. Oh well, guess whatever Roman said/tried didn’t work (Roman is pretty well known in the group as one of those guys who can pretty much get any girl he wants).

Eventually, a couple of us decide to go dancing, except we have no idea where to go… technically it’s still too early to go out to the clubs (it isn’t quite midnight yet), and Lauren doesn’t know the Paris nightlife scene well enough to know where to go. Turns out there’s a dance floor right downstairs, which is awesome since they’ve been playing *great* American music all night at the bar. So, we head downstairs, and rock out to AC/DC, Survivor, Michael Jackson, etc. All of it in the previously referenced category of good old, normal, sing along (badly) at the top of your lungs music. A couple downsides: 1) The DJ is about as talented as I am, and mixes in and out of each song the exact same way. 2) It’s hot as hell down here. Now, I’m a pretty sweaty guy to begin with, but this was just outrageous. After about 30 minutes, I’m soaking wet. Seriously. Soaking wet. I’ve taken off my blazer, rolled up my shirt sleeves, and unbuttoned my shirt as much as I can with out scaring everyone away, and my shirt is completely soaked through and I’m dripping sweat. Meanwhile, I’m surrounded by all of these French people wearing jackets, sweaters, etc. What the hell? Don’t these people sweat? The only upside is that I’m so completely soaked that when I move through the crowd, all I have to do is say “you really don’t want to touch me”, people kind of look at the state I’m in, and promptly get out of my way… so at least I have ease of movement.

So, dance there, and finally around 2am, we go outside to go to another club. I’m still soaking wet, so of course I’m now I’m also freezing cold. We walk about 20 minutes over to La Planche (and either my shirt miraculously dried during the walk, or all the sweat just froze… I’m still not sure), a club that all of these guys used to go to when they were in business school together, and it looks like the age of the crowd hasn’t changed a bit. It’s basically all a bunch of college aged kids, with the occasional 40-something dude prowling on the outskirts. Even better, turns out at that the local student supports for the UMP party are having a party at the club tonight, and are all wearing stickers and/or shirts saying “J’Kiffe Sarko” (I love Sarko). Sarko is the name of the candidate – and, for the us, this would roughly be the equivalent of wandering into a nightclub and finding out it was “I love George W Bush” night and the place was packed with all the members of the local Young Republicans. Mimi thought this was one of the funniest things he’d seen in a long time, and set out on two missions: 1) to get me into a political argument with one of them (they all passed… none wanted to deal with an English speaker), and 2) to get one of the “J’Kiffe Sarko” stickers. None of the guys would give hime one, so instead he convinced Lauren to go flirt with one of them and to get his sticker. We hang out there drinking, dancing, and other foolishness until about 5. From there, we head to a Brasserie on the Champs Elysee. Food, more wine, and finally time to go home at 7.